Insulation of your own water tank

The leap of the water temperature between the initial one finds inside the tank and the final one that we want to reach, supposes an important expense of energy. In order to save this energy, it is necessary that the initial temperature of the water is kept as high as possible.
Tanks are usually located outdoors, and for this reason water temparature is related with environmental temperature. Winter, in many places, deliver temperatures of -0ºC, causing the freezing of the water.
The first measurement at the time is to termically isolate the tank, wrapping it with 2 turns of prensed felt of glass wool, and with a silver foil reinforcement of 5 cm of thickness. In the same way we have to isolate the lid and the bottom. Hereby the felt acts as barrier against the cold while the aluminium metalizaed surface refracts the solar beams, preventing the excess of temperature in summer.
Isolated in this fashion, the tank will behave as a thermic container, and if you count with a solar heater (though it could be rudimentary), by means of suitable connections a circuit of recirculation can be established, taking advantage of the heat of the Sun to increase the temperature and to diminish gas consumption.

Generation of fresh air

When you want to control the temperature of a green-house or breeding-place, especially in summer, and if the exterior temperature is over 30 ºC, a practical solution is to cool the air by means of a tunnel dug in the land. The method behaves as a heat interchanger, that is to say, a system in which the land, being colder than air, absorbs its heat.
The method is simple and very effective but it has to be constructed with care.You have to dig a tunnel or ditch of straight walls and flat floor, with a width of 70 cm and a depth of 160 cm. It is possible that in this depth the water napa appears (water from the underground) according to its level and the time of the year in which there is constructed, which will improve the thermal yield because this water is generally pretty cool.
The length of the tunnel will be given by the physical possibilities of the area, but the longer it is, the more heat transfer will take place. A length of between 20 and 30 meters turns out to be effective. If this length cannot be achieved then it is possible to to expand and deepen the channel to achieve a major surface of contact between the air, the land and the water.

As a safety measurement you should cover the hole and extend a wire through the whole length of the tunnel, in order to avoid fallings. Another more sophisticated solution is to cover with concrete bars leaned on a step dug before the wings of the channel.
The end of the tunnel will remain opened and there you can place some mesh of wire, sufficiently closed, to prevent the revenue of small animals: rodents, weasels, hares, etc. The exit of the tunnel will be located inside the breeding-place or green-house, joining both with a pipeline of rectangular section of sheet zincada.
An air extractor complements the system moving the air column inside the tunnel.

As for the land extracted from the tunnel, take advantage of the fertile cap for landfill of gardens and garden, whereas the coarse will can be used to cover the bars or part of the sheets. It is important that openings do not stay between the sheets and the land to avoid the suction of the warm air for them and the water revenue of rain.
Source: Autosuficiencia

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