What are wrinkles and how to fight them
Submitted by Dr HemingwayAlthough some people consider wrinkles as a synonym of wisdom, most people nowadays would rather pass trough life without them. They typically appear as a result of aging processes such as glycation.
Most wrinkles appear on the parts of the body where sun exposure is greatest. These especially include the face, neck, the backs of the hands, and the tops of the forearms. Wrinkles come in two categories: fine surface lines and deep furrows. Wrinkle treatments are in general much more effective for fine lines.
Many products and procedures promise to reduce wrinkles. Some do little or nothing (like the products that claim they reduce “the appearance of fine lines,” which means that they don’t reduce the lines themselves). Others can achieve a fair amount of success. Let’s have a closer look at the process of aging … even if we discover a few more wrinkles in our face in the process.
Chronological Aging and Wrinkles
As a person ages the epidermal cells become thinner and less sticky. The thinner cells make the skin look noticeably thinner. The decreased stickiness of the cells decreases the effectiveness of the barrier function allowing moisture to be released instead of being kept in the skin. This causes dryness. The number of epidermal cells decreases by 10% per decade and they divide more slowly as we age making the skin less able to repair itself quickly.
The effects of aging on the dermal layer are significant. Not only does the dermal layer thin, but also less collagen is produced, and the elastin fibers that provide elasticity wear out. These changes in the scaffolding of the skin cause the skin to wrinkle and sag. Also, sebaceous glands get bigger but produce less sebum, and the number of sweat glands decreases. Both of these changes lead to skin dryness.
The rete-ridges of the dermal-epidermal junction flatten out, making the skin more fragile and making it easier for the skin to shear. This process also decreases the amount of nutrients available to the epidermis by decreasing the surface area in contact with the dermis, also interfering with the skin’s normal repair process.
In the subcutaneous layer the fat cells get smaller with age. This leads to more noticeable wrinkles and sagging, as the fat cells cannot “fill in” the damage from the other layers.
What factors promote wrinkles?
Factors that promote wrinkling include:
- Smoking
- Light skin type (people with blue eyes and easily burned skin are more prone to sun damage)
- Heredity (some families wrinkle more)
- Hairstyle (some styles provide cover and protection against sun damage)
- Dress (hats, long sleeves, etc.)
- Occupational and recreational habits (farming, sailing, golfing, using tanning booths, and so forth)
Some of these factors are beyond our control. The main preventive measures we can take are to minimize sun exposure and not smoke.
Tips for Wrinkle Prevention
Here are some things people can do to prevent getting many wrinkles at an early age:
- Avoid spending too much time in the direct sun, especially during the hours when the sun’s rays are harshest (between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM). Ultraviolet (UV) rays cause many wrinkles. Sunblock helps, but it doesn’t block out all the damaging UV rays that cause wrinkles to the skin. Still, if you are outside a lot, be sure to wear a sunblock with sun protection factor (SPF) 15 or higher and reapply often (every 2 to 3 hours). Always reapply after swimming or playing sports that make you sweaty!
- Don’t go to the tanning salon. The UV light from tanning booths is just as damaging as the sun’s - and sometimes worse. Also, choose products with built-in sunscreen. When selecting skin-care products, choose those with a built-in sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15. Also, be sure to select products that block both UVA and UVB rays.
- Don’t smoke! Smoking robs your skin of precious moisture and causes premature (early) wrinkles. (Did you ever notice that most heavy smokers have wrinkles around their mouths?)
- Drink lots of water.
- Moisturize dry skin, especially during months when the air is drier. Dry skin turns plump skin cells into shriveled ones, creating fine lines and wrinkles long before you’re due. Though moisturizers can’t prevent wrinkles, they can temporarily mask tiny lines and creases.
Conventional Cosmetic Procedures for wrinkle treatment
Glycolic acid peels
These superficial peels can make a very slight difference in the intensity of fine wrinkles.
Deeper peels
These peels use ingredients like salicylic acid and trichloroacetic acid and penetrate somewhat deeper into the skin. Deeper peels do a better job of smoothing fine lines. The deeper the peel, however, the greater the risk of side effects, such as long-lasting pigment changes (changes in the color of the skin) and scarring. Such peels do not require anesthesia. Mild sedation helps ease short-term but fairly intense discomfort.
Microdermabrasion
This refers to “sanding the skin” with a machine containing silica or aluminum crystals; many estheticians offer this service, usually in “packages” of six or seven sessions. Microdermabrasion does not change skin anatomy, though it may make the face feel smoother. Cosmetic products marketed as “home microdermabrasion” are just mild exfoliants, harmless but not likely to produce any meaningful change in wrinkles. Dermabrasion. This is a true surgical procedure, often performed under general anesthesia. The treating physician uses a rotating instrument to sand the skin down. Depending a great deal on the skill and experience of the operator, dermabrasion can result in excellent improvement, but can also produce significant side effects, including scarring and permanent changes in skin color.
Laser resurfacing
Using instruments such as the carbon dioxide and erbium lasers, physicians can achieve results similar to those of dermabrasion with greater reliability and precision. The laser is passed several times over the area to be treated until the peel reaches the middle of the dermis, the skin’s second layer. This helps stimulate the body’s natural collagen synthesis (production), which plumps up sagging skin and wrinkles. Some doctors perform laser resurfacing under “conscious sedation,” in which the patient remains awake and receives intravenous medications to calm and ease pain. This sedation is combined with the application of topical anesthetic creams such as EMLA, as well as injections of local anesthetics like lidocaine. Procedures may need to be repeated to maximize improvement. Skin takes a long time to heal (weeks to months) after resurfacing. In addition, this procedure, like dermabrasion can cause permanent pigment changes and scarring.
Fractional resurfacing
Newer lasers work through a modification of traditional laser resurfacing. Treatments affect not the whole skin but instead only evenly spaced spots surrounded by undamaged skin. Healing is much faster than traditional resurfacing, with less “downtime” afterward. Several treatments are needed to achieve full benefit. Non-ablative laser resurfacing. Newer lasers attempt to stimulate collagen synthesis under the skin without peeling or damaging the epidermis. Studies and clinical experience suggest that such procedures can improve fine wrinkles, though not as much as laser resurfacing. Several treatments may be necessary. These procedures are almost painless and there is little or no redness, peeling, or downtime afterward.
Heat and radiofrequency
Another variation of noninvasive facial rejuvenation is to heat tissue using radiofrequency devises and infrared light sources. Techniques are still being developed, but results to date suggest that such treatments are safe and can produce visible and lasting improvement, though not as much as surgical techniques like facelifts. Plastic surgical procedures. Surgical facelifts, brow lifts, and similar operations can be very helpful for selected patients.
Botox
Injection of botulinum toxin, the muscle poison, can paralyze muscles that produce the “frown lines” on the forehead, fine lines around the eyes, and other wrinkles. Improvement lasts several months and must be repeated to sustain improvement. Injected properly, Botox is quite safe: The muscle poison does not spread through the body to do damage elsewhere.
Fillers
Fillers are injected into the skin to increase volume and flatten wrinkles and folds. For a long time, the most popular filler was collagen, whose effect only lasts a few months. More recently, new filler substances, such as hyaluronic acid (Restylane, Juvederm) and calcium hydroxylapatite (Radiesse), have become popular, because their effect can last six to nine months, or even longer.
Anyone considering any of the cosmetic procedures should be sure to consult doctors who have experience in one or several of these techniques. Patients should fully inform themselves about the risks and potential benefits of the procedure they are considering before going forward.
Wrinkle creams, what are they made of?
The effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams depends in part on the active ingredient or ingredients. Here are some common ingredients that may result in slight to modest improvements in wrinkles.
- Retinol. Retinol is a vitamin A compound and is the first antioxidant to be widely used in nonprescription wrinkle creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals — unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Retinol is less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, a prescription topical treatment approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating wrinkles. Avoid vitamin A derivatives if you’re pregnant or may become pregnant because they increase the risk of birth defects.
- Hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are all synthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containing fruits. These acids are exfoliants — substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin. Because hydroxy acids increase your susceptibility to sun damage, wear sunscreen during use and for at least one week afterward.
- Coenzyme Q10. Coenzyme Q10 is a nutrient that helps regulate energy production in cells. Some studies have shown reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes with no side effects. Other studies show that application before sun exposure protects against sun damage.
- Copper peptides. Copper is a trace element found in every cell. In products applied to the skin, it’s combined with small protein fragments called peptides. Copper peptides enhance wound healing. They also stimulate production of collagen and may enhance the action of antioxidants.
- Kinetin. A plant growth factor, kinetin may improve wrinkles and uneven pigmentation with minimal irritation. It’s unclear how it works, but it may help reduce wrinkles by helping skin retain moisture and by stimulating the production of collagen. It may also be a potent antioxidant.
- Tea extracts. Green, black and oolong tea contain compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Green tea extracts are the ones most commonly found in wrinkle creams.
Always remember that You’ll likely need to use the wrinkle cream once or twice a day for many weeks before noticing any improvements. And once you discontinue using the product, your skin will likely return to its original appearance. They are only creams, not magic potions.
Sources: Mayoclinic, About, Medicinenet
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